Fashion Weeks from the ITS Contest designers’ perspective

The Contest continues to prove itself as a privileged observatory, capable of spotting the great names of tomorrow. Matthieu Blazy and Demna are among the designers who, at ITS Contest, planted the seeds of the future for many of the fashion industry’s leading brands. A piece from each of their very first collections is preserved in the ITS Arcademy collection.

So we’re excited about fashion weeks not because we’re on the lookout for the next fashionista item, but because they’re a perfect occasion to see what’s happening with the ITS Contest designers — who recognise the fundamental role ITS Contest has played in shaping their journey.

And there are many — so many that it’s impossible to list everyone here. That’s why we have an entire website section you can explore to check who works where in the fashion industry. What follows are a few of the highlights from an extended fashion week season, since we start with Yuima’s Haute Couture…

Paris FW Haute Couture

Catwalk show by Yuima Nakazato – ITS Contest 2008

“I have been contemplating the origins of clothing and how it came into being. One theory suggests that as our ancestors expanded their living areas from the African continent into colder regions, they utilised animal skins to protect their bodies from the cold, marking the genesis of clothing,” said Yuima about the collection. “In an era marked by persistent conflict, acknowledging human vulnerability through the exposed body feels especially pertinent. The genesis of clothing demonstrates humanity’s progression through expanding, supplementing, and protecting itself.”

Copenhagen FW

Catwalk show Cecilie Bahnsen – ITS Contest 2008

Titled Heartfelt, Cecilie Bahnsen’s SS26 collection distils emotion into light, rhythm, and presence. Garments feel plucked from another world, yet grounded in feeling. At the core lies a singular symbol: the heart — not as ornament, but as presence. The collection was also presented during Paris Fashion Week in October. Bahnsen embraced instinct and imagination, drawing inspiration from her young son, Ib. The collection radiates a raw, luminous energy: deconstructed mountain jackets transform into patchwork dresses, and a silk hoodie evolves into a trapeze gown. Utilitarian elements are reimagined through a couture lens — ripstop silks glisten like water, anoraks are detailed with lace, and technical fabrics meet delicate finishes. Silhouettes move with kinetic energy, capturing a childlike sense of wonder where softness is strength and play becomes precision.

8/8 Presentation 9:00 – 10:30 Sophie Bille Brahe – ITS Contest 2008

Sophie Bille Brahe is celebrated for her distinctive asymmetrical jewellery, where sparkling diamonds and clusters of pearls are arranged in elegant gold spirals, delicate florals, or flowing waves. Her creations seamlessly blend minimalist Scandinavian design with luxurious materials, achieving a rare harmony: pieces that feel both effortlessly wearable and undeniably exceptional. During Copenhagen Fashion Week, Sophie held an exclusive breakfast to introduce her newest pieces, worn by her guests.

Dubai FW

Catwalk show Tara Babylon – ITS Contest 2020

“I designed Tara Babylon Couture SS26 as a celebration of the brand’s core identity,” says Tara on her website, “where history and modernity intertwine through the medium of embroidery.” The catwalk show of her latest endeavour was held in Dubai during the eponymous fashion week. “Drawing on symbolic motifs from ancient Babylon and the Middle East, the collection reimagines heritage through a playful, contemporary lens infused with Western influences. It’s both a personal testament to my artistic vision and a reflection of my cultural heritage and present way of life.”

New York FW

Catwalk show Kim Shui – ITS Contest 2015

On September 13, Kim Shui presented her Spring/Summer 2026 collection at the One World Observatory — forty looks inspired by Artemisia Gentileschi’s Allegory of Inclination, a painting once censored and recently uncovered. The collection explores the tension between what is shown and what is concealed, and how that shapes identity.

Garments moved fluidly, echoing Shui’s instinct to reconstruct the tailoring and craftsmanship she absorbed growing up in Rome (she actually speaks perfect Italian, by the way). Classic techniques met a modern sensibility through soft seafoam greens, powder blues, warm neutrals, and flashes of metallic. Sheer layers, tassels, cut-outs, and corseted shapes created contrasts of openness and control, intimacy and strength. For Shui, this season’s woman “is not merely a muse, but the author of her own unveiling.”

London FW

Catwalk show Maximillian Raynor – ITS Contest 2025

Winner of the last edition of ITS Contest, Maximillian Raynor presented his collection titled I’ll Cry If I Want To. The show unfolded like a surreal birthday dream, complete with candlelit cakes and an elderly couple dancing before the first look appeared. It introduced an electric, character-driven narrative that blurred memory, fantasy, and fashion.

Drawing on his Derbyshire roots, Raynor reinterpreted family history through a queer, theatrical lens — a boy discovering old photographs and slipping into a dream where ancestors from different eras reunite at one uncanny celebration.

Catwalk show Cameron Williams (Nuba) – ITS Contest 2020

Cameron continues a tailoring approach that balances deliberate precision with fluid draping, deeply informed by the aesthetics and heritage of the Afro-Caribbean diaspora.

This collection centres on resilience and adaptability, exploring how these qualities emerge through everyday elegance. Drawing inspiration from women observed on the streets, the pieces reflect the subtle strength and cultural identity carried by Afro-Caribbean and West African women navigating metropolitan life, translating their presence and heritage into contemporary fashion.

Catwalk 17:00 Mark Fast – ITS Contest 2008

At London Fashion Week, Mark Fast unveiled a Spring/Summer 2026 collection that captured the ethereal beauty of the coast. Drawing from sea glass and salt-worn shores, the collection reflects the transformative power of the sea, where time and tide shape resilience into brilliance.

Rope-like knits wrap the body like protective armour, while velvet twinsets offer sleek sophistication. Romantic lace cardigans and flowing chiffon gowns contrast with sun-bleached, raw-edge denim minis, blending strength, texture, and airy elegance.

Catwalk show Chopova Lowena – ITS Contest 2018

Chopova Lowena embraced a punk-infused cheerleader spirit for this collection: pleated miniskirts and varsity jackets mingled with faux furs and bold, statement dresses. The brand’s signature chain-detailed skirts returned, reaffirming its unmistakable aesthetic, now infused with cheerleader motifs and the vibrant folklore of Bulgaria’s Karakachani costumes.

“Designing this collection took us back to our roots of playfulness and experimentation,” the duo explained. “We revisited our teenage selves — the girls we were and those we admired — dreaming in our rooms of winning the big game, kissing the cute boy, and reigning at the top of the cheerleader pyramid.”

Catwalk show Johanna Parv – ITS Contest 2020

Johanna Parv’s SS26 collection captures the rhythm of movement and modern life. Designed for the professional woman, it transitions seamlessly from gym to work to evening. Lightweight wool, silk jersey, and water-repellent linen ensure ease and adaptability, with elongated silhouettes and discreet functionality. The key piece, the belt-back — a hybrid of handbag and belt bag — draws from hiking gear to balance weight on the hips. For Parv, design is a dialogue completed when women make each piece their own.

Presentation Tolu Coker – ITS Contest 2018

Tolu Coker’s SS26 collection reflected on heritage, memory, and womanhood with quiet intimacy. Presented through a short film co-created with her brother Ade, Unfinished Business featured Naomi Campbell (kudos to her support for both Tolu and Richard Quinn!) speaking on motherhood, nostalgia, and her Jamaican and West African roots, grounding the work in lived experience.

Coker’s signature tailoring appeared in composed silhouettes — pleated skirts, piped tops, and twinsets in khaki, chocolate, and navy. Elegant and restrained, the collection honoured the past while wearing it with tenderness and grace.

Milan FW

Gucci “La Famiglia” presentation online by Demna

Demna once again surprises with an early reveal of his debut Gucci collection, La Famiglia — a bold act of renewal and defiance. Released ahead of Milan Fashion Week, the lookbook reimagines Gucci’s heritage through a fictional family tree, where sensuality, irony, and drama intertwine.

More than a collection, La Famiglia is a manifesto of desire and identity. Demna’s cast of characters — the It-Girl, the Partyboy, the Androgynous, the Introvert — embodies the multiplicity of today’s world, redefining the spirit of “Gucciness” through inclusivity and provocation. It anticipated a brilliant short movie by Spike Jonze starring Demi Moore, Edward Norton, and other Hollywood icons, which we warmly recommend on YouTube.

What an outstanding career for a designer who wasn’t even aware he had applied for ITS Contest 2004 — it was his brother who made the application. Demna today acknowledges ITS Contest as a pivotal milestone: “It was the first door that opened for me, and it played a crucial role in my career,” he recalls.

Presentation Chelsea Jean Lamm – ITS Contest 2024

Chelsea Jean Lamm debuts her first collection at CameraModa Fashion Hub on September 25, marking a milestone for the South African-German designer known for blending art, sustainability, and high fashion. Recognised by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana as one of the season’s standout emerging talents, Lamm embodies a new generation reshaping luxury through ethical practice.

Her collection blurs the line between fashion and contemporary art. Each piece, created in collaboration with visual artist Ashley Elizabeth Lamm, transforms recycled printed paper into intricate collages that become unique couture garments. This inventive process challenges traditional fashion production while championing environmental responsibility.

Presentation Felipe Fiallo – ITS Contest 2020

The SS26 collection, Victory, is a tribute to motorsport and the golden era of Formula 1. “Victory is about optimism, movement, and the journey,” Fiallo explains. “After a period of chaos, this collection celebrates the full day — travel, celebration, and hope.”

The footwear embodies technical innovation: a concealed 1.2 cm heel, exoskeleton-inspired structures, and a silhouette drawn from the 1963 Car Shoe. Originally designed by Gianni Mostile for motorsport elites, the classic is reinterpreted for modern life. “We wanted a new shape that honours the traditional car shoe, fully flat with a hidden heel for comfort and posture. The outsole and insole support the arch and cushion the heel, making them perfect for driving, walking, and celebrating.”

Fiallo’s connection to the automotive world runs deep. SS26 also marks the brand’s official entry into motorsport with a capsule collection created in collaboration with Double TT Racing and Ferrari.

Paris FW

Catwalk show Maison Courrèges by Nicolas Di Felice – ITS Contest 2008

Nicolas Di Felice describes his inspiration as the moment the sun hits your eyes, blurring the line between reality and illusion. His collection reflects on the visual saturation of contemporary life — an overload of stimuli that overwhelms and paralyses. From this tension, his work emerges — not to comfort, but to unsettle, ultimately forging a new sense of order.

The debut looks are icy: fitted silhouettes in pale blue, models’ faces veiled in chromatic layers that feel protective, as if they’ve endured an intense exposure to light. Gradually, shapes soften, rigidity fades, fabrics become more natural, and luxurious leathers smooth the lines. The collection narrates a visual progression from tension to transformation, from resistance to surrender.

Catwalk show Maison Chanel by Matthieu Blazy – ITS Contest 2006

And finally, the moment the fashion world had been waiting for: Matthieu Blazy’s debut for Chanel — a collection daring, inventive, often breathtaking, and intriguingly bold — met with undeniable acclaim.

Not bad for a designer who almost missed ITS Contest because, at the time, he did not know how to reach Trieste. If it weren’t for a friend of his mother — who drove him here — he might have missed it entirely. Like the sliding doors of time, he wouldn’t have won the coveted Maria Luisa Award by Maria Luisa Poumaillou, the legendary buyer and talent scout whose husband once told Matthieu in 2015, in their apartment on rue Cambon — the historic address of Chanel — “Well, maybe you’ll come back here sometime.” And he would have missed meeting Raf Simons without realising it was him: after the ITS Contest show he was having drinks with someone, telling him how much he respected Raf Simons’s work, not knowing he was actually speaking with him. It was the beginning of the adventure that led him, almost 20 years later, to Maison Chanel.

“Chanel speaks of love. The birth of modernity in fashion comes from a love story. That’s what I find most beautiful. It has no time or place: it is an idea of freedom, worn and claimed by Gabrielle Chanel,” Blazy explained.

Ironically, within a set evoking the emptiness of space — huge suspended planets of the solar system created in textile and illuminated from within — the collection felt like a fresh gust of air, revitalising the house of Chanel.

And we too felt revitalised by our designers’ creativity.