Renowned with Trieste’s postman for being the worst time of the year following Christmas are the ITS preselections. Lugging armfuls of portfolios at a time up 4 flights of stairs is indeed an arduous task. Despite the friendly complaints, hundreds of portfolios arrive safely at our office ready to be opened and viewed. For the first time we had a mere 2 weeks to view all 1054 portfolios. A tough job but very rewarding as the more you delve the more can be understood about the creative minds. It is to all effects a privileged viewpoint of what is going on in the young fashion/accessory/photography community.
Concepts seem to be more concise and visibly pertinent to collections. The concepts are created for clothes for a person today rather than to dress a world inside the designers head. Less stories are being told through collections. This is not to say collections are void of messages and feelings. Communication is clearer and can be subtle or blatant.
There has been a return of covered faces. The last episode goes back to three years ago. Faces are covered to hide, disguise, mask, silence, obscure, conceal and remove identity. In contrast extra faces appeared in clothes camouflaged within the adornments of the outfits.
We saw influences coming from gender bending with collections pushing the boundaries of masculinity and femininity. This, however was more prominent in the inspiration and collections for menswear.
Travel or rather a new nomadic lifestyle was represented in collections with multifunctional clothes, sleeping bag coats and luggage holders.
Both joy and loss of a pregnancy cropped up in projects portraying emotions and physical changes.
Collections were on the whole less heavily embellished. There is still attention to details. A favourite feature in collection, inspiration and background is hearts – in an organic state, romantic, tattoos, cartoons…
This year we did not see much experimentation of shapes. Lots of volume, excessive upper volume what we refer to as the Antwerp over compensation syndrome. A state which has driven designers from all over the world to seek inspiration from the Antwerp volumes. Hardly any “flou” and just a little tailoring. Black is definitely back often with greys, silver or white. Less gregarious colour mixes everything seems more in tone with the odd bright bursts. Block plain colours and less contrasts. Not much print going on. No floral or animal prints.
Leather is accepted and used just like any other material as are the synthetic technical fabrics. i-D slips down to second place as favourite magazine with Vogue(total of various editions) taking the number spot, Collezioni (total of various editions) a close third place. For the second year in a row Nicolas Ghesquiere Balenciaga tops as favourite designer, Alexander McQueen holds still at second place as does John Galliano at third.
Teaching creativity. Interview with Ike Rust, menswear tutor to former ITS winners.
13 February, 2023
In the twenty years of ITS Contest rarely have we seen such consistency in training young designers that would be then be selected as finalists by the ITS Jury, a first…
ITS Contest names that ring a bell.
Craig Green, David Koma, Liam Fahy and Lee Matthews in the ITS Arcademy Collection.
12 January, 2023
In the history of contemporary fashion, documented through the perspective of the ITS Arcademy Collection, there are designers who made history. Interestingly, it’s not always names that made it through to…
One Collection, infinite stories: Religion. Looking at the religious elements of the ITS Arcademy collection.
05 December, 2022
Looking for either controversy, beauty, culture or symbolism, it is no mystery why fashion drives inspiration from religion. They are undeniably intertwined: religions and religious orders have dress codes and use…
Handling the History of Contemporary Fashion Evolution. Interview with the head of our Collection team, in charge of handling the ITS Foundation’s archival patrimony.
04 December, 2022
Stepping into a museum space can often feel like everything’s stuck in time, frozen. As if it were a place where not much happens, other than cleaning and occasional moving of…
ITS Finalists nominated at The Fashion Awards 2022. Demna, Matthieu Blazy and Chopova Lowena among the nominees of the Oscars of Fashion.
28 November, 2022
Assigned annually in London by the British Fashion Council, The Fashion Awards might seem like they’ve only existed since Craig Green won Designer of the Year in 2016. But the ceremony…
Sketching, the Aitor Throup way.
A chat about drawing as a daily therapy with ITS 2006 winner Aitor Throup.
15 November, 2022
“Aitor Throup is an Argentinian-born British artist, designer and creative director.” This is the only sentence that sounds vaguely complete about what Aitor is. All attempts to pin down every aspect…