Stories

From the creative directors of Chanel and Gucci, to costume designers, artists, and sustainable design pioneers, in 25 years ITS Contest has engaged with more than 15,000 creative minds from around the world, often at the beginning of their professional journey.

For those selected to join us in Trieste, ITS Contest has often served as a springboard — offering visibility, critical feedback, and professional connections — from which diverse careers have developed across the fashion system, spanning global fashion houses, studios, independent ateliers, theatres and film sets, as well as research, education, sustainability, and innovation.

This diversity reflects how the ITS Contest Jury selects talent: beyond commercial considerations, privileging creative vision, research, project quality and innovation, without assumptions of linear or predefined career paths.

The work presented through ITS Contest is consistently grounded in artistic value, which is why works by former ITS Contest finalists and award recipients are now part of Italy’s first museum dedicated to contemporary fashion and art, ITS Arcademy – Museum of Art in Fashion.
Below, a selection of alumni stories.

Chanel by Matthieu Blazy

Matthieu Blazy won the Maria Luisa Award in 2006, presented by legendary buyer and talent scout Maria Luisa Poumaillou, followed by roles at Raf Simons, Maison Margiela and Céline before joining Bottega Veneta as Creative Director. In December 2024 he was appointed Creative Director at Maison Chanel, only the second external designer to lead the house after Karl Lagerfeld. image credit: PA media

Gucci by Demna

Demna won the ITS Collection of the Year Award in 2004, followed by stints at Maison Margiela and Louis Vuitton before launching Vetements. In 2016 he was appointed Creative Director of Balenciaga, where he made fashion history. As of July 2025 he is Creative Director of Gucci.

Thomasine Barnekow for Maison Schiaparelli

Hard to keep track of glovemaker Thomasine’s achievements through the years, the list of illustrious collaborations is impressive. Louis Vuitton, Walter van Beirendonck, and recently Maison Schiaparelli, worn by Beyoncé at the Grammies in 2021.

Iceberg by James Long

Through his eponymous menswear brand James Long has become synonymous of mastery in knitwear and denim. Catching the eye of Iceberg in 2015 where he was appointed menswear Creative Director, and the following womenswear too

Helen Kirkum for Reebok

Helen has already carved her own name in the history of sneakers. Based entirely on recycled and dead stock materials, her designs are artisanal marvels that have caught the eye of Adidas, Nike, Lacoste and, featured here, Reebok, where she is on her 2nd capsule collection.

Björk in Maiko Takeda

At ITS Maiko presented a series of sculptural pieces blurring the boundaries of surrounding space. The international press went wild on her collection and so did artist and performer Bjork, who used her pieces during her Biophilia World Tour and for the cover of her following album Vulnicura.

Cecilie Bahnsen

Her eponymous brand needs no presentation, with a style living at the intersection of couture and ready-to-wear while at the same time celebrating French fashion design and her own Scandinavian roots. Cecilie is the perfect example of a young designer who has gained experience in the industry working for the likes of Galliano and Erdem before establishing herself.

Chopova Lowena

Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena were a sensation at ITS right from the start: strong signature styles such as theirs cannot fly under the radar. Mixing Bulgarian tradition and synthetic fabrics dipped in the 80s to create a new folkloric modernity, their brand is here to stay.

Yuima Nakazato - Paris Haute Couture

Yuima is taking fabric innovation and the overall process of fashion design into uncharted territory, looking at aerospace technologies and combining them with the most refined craftsmanship to ultimately democratise bespoke designs. In 2016 he was the 2nd Japanese designer in history to be invited to show at Paris Haute Couture, and has since been an official guest designer.

Justin Smith for Angelina Jolie

Displayed in galleries and museums, featured in movies, worn by celebrities, praised by the likes of Stephen Jones. Milliner Justin Smith is a unique designer creating unique pieces of art, like the bespole horn headwear for Maleficent, worn by Angelina Jolie.

Tilda Swinton in Mark Fast

When Canadian designer Mark Fast landed at ITS with his revolutionary spiderweb-like knits, it was clear right away that he would leave a mark. The cover of Another Magazine featuring Tilda Swinton in 2013 is just one of many in a long list of achievements.

Scarlett Johansson in Anabela Chan

Following two selections at ITS (which makes her part of a very selected few), Anabela Chan established herself championing laboratory-grown gems and out-of-the-ordinary artisanal craftsmanship. Countless celebrities wear her creations, like Scarlett Johansson.

Jai Lennard Photography

Comedian Chris Rock is one of many actors, politicians, influencers, icons and personalities shot by photographer Jai Lennard for some of the most renowned magazines in the world. A career that kickstarted at ITS, with a truly unique photo series on sexual perversions dipped in irony.

Noémie Goudal Photography

Noémie is a visual artist working with photography, film and installation to achieve her vision. Her work has been acquired by Centre Pompidou in Paris and FOAM Photography Museum in Amsterdam, among others and exhibited worldwide.

Alejandro Guijarro Photography

Exploring spatial relations in photographic representation, Alejandro dances between what can be seen and what can be understood. In one of his latest series he is shooting blackboards covered in calculations from universities of the like of Cambridge, Stanford, MIT and Oxford. His work has been exhibited at the Saatchy Gallery and included in the Frank Suss and Goetz collections.

Designer Journeys

The paths emerging designers take unfold in many different ways. Some develop their work within established structures; others move across disciplines or build independent practices. Together, these journeys reflect the range of approaches and visions recognised by ITS Contest over time.

In-House

Careers may continue within leading fashion houses and global brands, spanning creative leadership and specialised technical roles—both essential to advancing fashion through research-led thinking and experimentation.

Enterpreneurship

Independence leads to the founding of labels and the development of alternative business models.

These practices allow for greater autonomy and experimentation in how work is conceived and sustained.

Film & Cinema

Work may extend across disciplines, finding continuity in film, cinema, costume, and visual storytelling.

In these contexts, narratives, atmospheres, and imagined worlds take shape.

Innovation

Innovation-driven practices operate across fashion, technology, sustainability, materials, and systems.

Here, the focus shifts toward questioning processes rather than producing finished products.

Art

At times, practice moves into the field of contemporary art, engaging with installation, performance, image-making, and material research.

Fashion becomes a medium for conceptual exploration and artistic expression.

In these contexts, narratives, atmospheres, and imagined worlds take shape.

ITS Arcademy Archive

From creative directors to costume designers, from artists to design entrepreneurs, discover the work of all ITS Contest designers in the ITS Arcademy Archive.

Explore the Collection

Explore the Fashion, Accessories, Jewellery, and Photography sections of the ITS Arcademy Collection. Our Digital Archive provides access to original works by designers, accompanied by technical information and insights into the concepts and inspirations behind each piece. Whether for research or exploration, it offers an opportunity to engage with creativity in its most authentic form.

Digitalisation is an ongoing process. The archive is progressively enriched with new materials and updated research; currently, over 700 works are available online, with additional items added on a regular basis as part of our long-term commitment to accessibility and preservation.

...Dive into the Archive