The Breadwinner

technical description

High-cut hooded body developed by combining three men’s cotton briefs with light blue check patterns; the underwear elastic frames the face. Low-rise indigo denim jeans with an oversized fit, underwear-inspired front fly, and adjustable back strap. The look is completed by the Breadwinner bag — a hand-held loaf-shaped bag with a bite mark detail, inspired by the sculptures of artist Romulo Celdran — and black patent leather lace-up shoes.

concept

William Palmer playfully critiques British masculinity using humour and satire to subvert rigid, hyper-masculine ideals. Inspired by personal experiences, he reflects on the pressures of financial success and societal expectations on the “breadwinner”, the family member earning the most money. A duffle bag shaped like a loaf of bread humorously embodies this theme, while bite mark motifs represent imperfection in a perfection-driven world. Childhood prank rituals like the “wedgie” - when someone’s underwear gets pulled up tightly between the buttocks - are reimagined through underwear-hoodie hybrids, blending playfulness with adult masculinity. Channeling the cheeky energy of lad culture, the collection questions toxic traits while proposing a more open, vulnerable, and expressive vision of masculinity.

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