technical description
Waistcoat crafted out of vertical screw-connected stripes in bleached shades of grey to provide an industrial effect. Raw-edged finished incrustations highlighted by screws in the corners. Asymmetrical flap closure on the front, slit over the legs in the back of the upper layer, doubled dark grey nylon underlayer.
concept
Brutalist architecture’s impactful, intimidating power inspired designer Marcel Sommer. He’s captivated by the “violence of silence” it expresses, represented by extreme, solid concrete structures, shape fluidity and the use of light. His project translates these concepts by developing a technique based on cutting fabric stripes, folding and stitching them together to create a soft but solid shape that can then be cut and “carved” into details. This allows Marcel to work on contrast - hard and soft, heavy and light - also through a careful choice of materials, developing pleated and deconstructed jackets, wide cut chiffon pants with hard shaped leather ‘box’ waistcoats, or metal string tops on a fine rib knit, worn with organza pants.
tags
Architecture, Brutalism, Concrete, Geometry, Lightness, Toughness vs Softnessyear
2024category
Fashionobject type
Vest, Turtleneck, Trousers, Shoeshistorical summary
ITS Contest Application year: 2023
Application area: Fashion
Collection shortlisted as a Finalist
Winner of ITS Special Mention powered by PITTI Immagine Tutoring & Consulting Award